Italy

Cape Town - 7 October 

Yulande and I spent the evening at my favourite local with Dion, Mark and friends before walking home. No fireflies as the previous night, probably because of the wind. 

We had an early night and I was in bed checking in for my flight when it asked me for my Visa. I'd booked on my South African passport which has the surname Zoutendyk. Don't ask!

I'd heard a horror story from a friend last Saturday, where she'd miss-spelt her name when booking her flight and they said 48 hours was required to correct it! They rushed it through but the fox came too late as the plane took off without her and she had a buy a whole new flight two days later.  Ouch. So I was a bit concerned. I called Evelyn, who's in the airline business and she suggested taking my marriage certificate with me. 

Slept well, finished packing in the morning and walked the dogs.

Was relieved to see my taxi was on his way so I said goodbye to Yulande, Indy and Finn and went down to wait at the end of my road.  Olly came to visit. 

Was lovely getting a goodbye. My taxi was still not moving though. It had said 15 mins for 15 mins now!!  I tried calling. No answer. I messaged. Nothing. Calling. Stress. Do I cancel and get a normal Uber which would have been cheaper than reserving one. Dion messaged to see if I was sorted and he said there were two in the area. Just as I was going to cancel he messaged that he's on his way. He'd stopped at the shops 😠

But then he explained hia wife was going to Zim next day and bus company sprung it on him that they needed luggage today, so he had get things to then take to Belville. So I didn't rate him as I had planned.

Now relaxing and going to research what to do in Amalfi coast.

So much for choosing a window seat!! 

I've asked the lady to move me if there is one free - she laughed when she saw the seat I chose 🤣

I thought of Anthea while walking onto the plane, and probably always will now. She somehow managed to take a wrong turn and get onto the wrong plane 🤣

Yay, she kindly moved me 🎉

Next stop Ethiopia. 

Let's hope. They've been revving the plane and now smoke poured out. We should have taken off half an hour ago. Engine issues?  Hmm. 

8 October - Rome

I'd fallen asleep by the time we finally took off, at least an hour late. Slept on and off and we landed around 6:30 instead of scheduled 5:30.

I went straight to baggage claim - pee can wait, bag first. I'm always mildly anxious at this point, and today for good reason, my bag never arrived. Me an nice Italian guy who was going to Venice next were both left standing without luggage. It took about an hour to be given an irregularity report number and told they will call or email. That's it - sorry for you. What a mess. 

I caught the train to Rome Termini, the main station in the city centre and bought a new SIM. It should have worked within 20 mins but I found out later there was some issue with the verification of who I am process and I only managed to fix it late that night. Resending a video of myself stating who I am and sending more passport photos. What a shlep. But I'm finally connected. 

I walked from the station to my accommodation which was about 5 minutes. It's the top floor in a lovely area, with a lovely host called Paolo. She let me leave the few belongings I had and said the room would be ready when I returned. 

Outside my Airbnb

I'm staying in a lovely area close to the Colloseum so I headed there first.

Saw an autobank on the way which had English, so I put my card in and selected to draw 300 euros. That should do the trip and I'd pay only one bank fee which was recommended. Everything seemed fine and it returned my card... I waited. No cash!  Aaargh. A lady was passing and I asked her if she spoke English and explained what happened. She said the same had happened to her in the past and it hadn't come off her account. I felt slightly better, but not having my sim working, I couldn't check.

Stressful. 

Rome is just beautiful. I soon found the Colloseum and it's magnificent. I found the entrance but they said I needed to queue for a ticket first. Wow, the queue went on and on. I should have taken a photo!

We stood in the hot sun a lot of the time for nearly 3 hours! 

Fortunately, Geoff and Lisa from Bath, and old guy  (he's a Londoner and she is from Philippines) were in front, and Michelle and Hendrik, a young German couple. We entertainee each other to make the time pass and felt like friends by the time we finally got our tickets, which were only valid for after 4. We decided to spend the day together.

Michelle, Geoff and Hendrik 

Thank goodness Yulande suggested I take a scarf - my sunhat and sunblock is in lost luggage!

Walking to Trevi fountain, you realise how rich in architecture Rome is. Just lovely.

The slow walk was about 20 mins

Trevi fountain 

Michelle had some weird sweet bubble drink and I bought a beer. You are allowed to drink in the street here.

We wandered back to the Colloseum and spent quite a while wandering around inside and absorbing the place. 

More photos when I have time.

After saying goodbye to Geoff and Lisa, we went to the Spanish steps. I'm not sure why they are so popular. I then said goodbye to Hendrik and Michelle and walked home. Exhausted.

Looked nice

9 October - Vatican

My host, Paola, made me coffee and I headed off later than I meant to trying to phone about my bag. 

Things are so grand in Rome and I passed a church which I entered and this..

I passed the Pantheon.

Made my way across the river to the Vatican.

Seagull?

Security 

Queue was long but went quickly because entry was free of charge.

Michelangelo's when he was just 23

It was spectacular.

I bought a ticket to climb to the top of the Basilica, all 500 and something steps!! It was worth it.

It was hot!

You walked around the inside of the dome and then the outside.

Looking up from inside the dome 

Inside the dome

The stairs to the very top were curved and cramped but so worth the effort!

The view!!

Last picture inside..

It was about two o clock by the time I was finished and I walked to the Sistine chapel where again the queue was long but went quickly.

It was the Vatican museum, with the Sistine at the end of the route. 

Michaelangelo, but looks the same as the one in St Peter's?

I sat in the gardens to rest a little and had a cracker and cheese (off the plane), then did the long route to the Sistine chapel.

Beautiful ceiling on the way

And finally the Sistine chapel. Crowded but magnificent.

The famous gift of life 

You aren't allowed to take photos I discovered after the first one, so I snuck this second one. Naughty.

Leaving Vatican museum 

Passing a wedding on the way, I walked back to the Pantheon where I'd seen a Coop shop and I bought some fruit, a beer, crackers, a delicious cheese from the deli counter that the lady helped me choose, oh, and toothpaste, brush and deodorant. Wish I'd got some conditioner as well.

My phone battery was dying so didn't take photos walking home which is a shame.  I don't have any of Rome at night.

I had dinner at a restaurant near my Airbnb. A chicken salad and Aperol. 

Tuesday 10 October

I woke early and walked a few blocks to the nearest bank to draw cash. No luck. The bank opened at 8:30 so I walked to the station to see if the Iliad phone lady was there to help me with something. She wasn't. Went back to the bank and the guy was no help but I finally figured out that my international limit was too low and that the machine was mostly faulty but worked sometimes, so I kept trying until I got my cash. Now I could pay my landlady the 5 Euro city tax.

Buying my suitcase 

I bought a suitcase to carry my new shopping and caught my 11:26 train down to Salerno.

My companions on the trip were two lovely friends and her child, from Poland.

Salerno is on the coast and I walked to my Airbnb along the beachfront. To be frank it's not pretty. It felt a bit like a time warp into the 50s. A mix of Seapoint and Strand maybe? 

After being committed to my Airbnb, I viewed it on Google Street view and it looked a bit dodgy so my expectations were low and I'd prepared myself for a bad experience, but it's lovely.

View from my window 

Dion helped at home with letting my dogs out before Tsedi arrived to spend the night with them. 

Spent a few hours trying to resolve my lost luggage, then a few hours trying to replace some clothes and shoes with no luck.  Waste of time 😠

Ended the evening with my first pizza in Italy. Was great.

Went to bed tired.

Wed 11 October - Positano 

I had a nice coffee and cereal at my self service Airbnb, then headed off for the port, a half hour walk. Google took me too far but I'd picked up the brochure from an information booth I passed so could show it and someone pointed me back in the right direction. 

Statue on the walk

Bought my ticket, 15 euros one way and joined Mick and Susanna for the two, two Canadians celebrating their 40th.

We stopped at Amalfi to people on and off.

Next stop was Positano!

Crowded and touristy with shops, but lovely. I texted Jackie who I met at Trina's birthday and is the reason I'm here. She hopes to come here next year and it's real pity we aren't together. We would have had lots of fun!

I walked to the other end of the beach and took a selfie looking back.

The dresses for sale were mostly super colourful and the bathing costumes and sandals really expensive, so I took my shoes off and just walked bare feet. Didn't go inside the cathedral and nothing will compare with Rome 🙂

I asked someone where the path along the coast was and he directed it. It was a lovely walk, about 5-10 mins.

I walked to the end of the beach above, to where the free part was and had the greatest swim (good thing I have a sports bra and bought some bigger panties 😅)

There were some gentleman sitting behind me with chickens.

I then headed to the nearest beach bar and had a beer, chatting to four guys at the next table on a boy's holiday. They were Canadian and American with Italian backgrounds and said I liked like Niki Positano and that I should look up her Utube channel. They are going to tell their wives they saw her 😅

 

There a sweet cove next to this beach so I headed there to eat my left over pizza from last night, yummy cheese and crackers.

I shared my cracker with a pigeon, then snoozed a bit.

Went for a second swim and gelato (yummy chocolate icecream).

Where I snoozed and swam

Decided to walk up into Positano a bit which was nice. Tiny, windy roads with shops right onto them.

View walking back

Beautiful view, sitting right on the road at a bend

I saw a dress I loved but it was 120 euros!

I'd seen a painting I really liked on the way up, so negotiated a bit and spoilt myself with a memento of Positano.

Bought my return ferry ticket and said goodbye to beautiful Positano!

The trip is about an hour and a half.

Those stairs!!

Stopped at Amalfi again.

Had a lekka day!

Salerno 

I walked home along the shops hoping to find something I liked that wasn't too expensive but the only dress didn't have my size.

Got home about 7:30 tired. Had olives and cheese, chatted to Dave and updated this blog.

Night friends and family 💜

Thu 12 October - Amalfi and Ravello

My alarm woke me, coffee in my room and got into clean but damp clothes. Walked to the ferries, got my 10 euro ticket and I was the first person on the first ferry (8:40). The breeze dried my clothing and we arrived at Amali about 9. 

Nice being early. I found where to buy a bus ticket and got a return to Ravello for only 1.50 euro per way. I'd just missed the 9 o clock one and next was at 10.

I walked to the square past the church and further up into Amalfi,. Met some people doing the lemon tour so walked with them to see what it was, but fully booked.

So walked back slowly for my bus at 10.

The trip was a bit scary - narrow roads and steep cliffs, with the driver on his phone half the time, but we made it. Was glad to only hear later about the bus going over the cliff in May, moments after the tourists had been dropped and the young driver was instantly killed.

Ravello was very quaint. You arrive onto a square with this lovely villa.

There are lots of loved dogs in Italy.

These huge plates were beautiful. Would have loved one.

Ok then 😅

Was tempted to buy some Murano glass but didn't.

This was on half price sale for 300 euros 

Loved this but put of my price range 🙂

Sweet old dog 

Back at the town square 

I found information where I got a map and was told there were two gardens to visit. I chose to just go into the Villa Rufolo for 8 euros. I add the prices for anyone planning a trip.

I spent about an hour wondering about the villa and reading the brochure. The Rufalo family built the villa and subsequent owners added on.

The dog house 

I walked to the top of the tower.

The views were lovely from the deck and garden.

There wasn't much more to do in the village so I caught the next bus/minibus back to Amalfi. 

Ate a chocolate and pistachio gelato in the square at the church and watch a bridal couple being photographed.

Having seen most of Amalfi I headed down to the pebble beach and had a swim (yes, in my underwear 🤣). Nobody cared.  There was an annoying spoilt American child who screamed the whole time. 

Walking back to the ferries to get my ticket I asked the bus driver if the bus was going to Salerno. One was at 4 and only 2.8 euros. Great.

It was again quite a scary ride - tiny road with cliff drops at times - cars needing to reverse to let us past, but was distracted chatting to a lovely Brazilian lady who's been to Cape Town twice already and wants to go back again.

Back at Salerno I relaxed a bit, then headed down to EuroSpin to get some Prosecco for the next evening. Tim's flight was cancelled because an Angolan aeroplane broke down on the runway and spilt oil which was a problem getting clean. He's currently booked on a flight Friday morning 😞

Dodgy looking neighborhood where I stayed but I never felt unsafe.

My building 🤣 It was lovely inside.

Friday the 13th - Florence (Maybe that's why so much as gonw wrong!)

I woke super early - even before my alarm set for 5:30. Had a coffee, packed my last few things and dragged my new suitcase, now filled with alcohol, for the half hour walk to the station.

The lady checking tickets siad it doesn't need to be validated as I read on the internet, so that must have changed. I was the first person on platform 6 waiting for the 7:20 train.

He's got mozzarella in those containers, not human organs!

The train trip was uneventful and I arrived at Firenze (Florence) Santa Maria station just after 11. Judy, Dad and Mom landed at a similar time but were having problems getting the hire car. Judy's licence had expired and they wouldn't accept the temporary letter she'd been given from the traffic department. They wouldn't give her the car. She rebooked elsewhere under Jess's licence, and got the train into the city.

I had a picnic at the station while I waited.

About 2 or 3 hours later they arrived and we walked around Florence.

We walked as far as Vecchio bridge.

We stumbled into these squares with statues and then this beautiful cathedral.  

Dad sat here for a beer.

We headed back to the station where we met up with Jess who'd landed late in Pisa and then trained to Florence. We caught a train back to the airport, then a shuttle bus to the car hire and started a second time to rent a car. They insist on using the credit card as surity of the driver. Jess's card didn't have enough money in it and she couldn't transfer. Poo. Now what. Judy had said they wouldn't accept my licence but the guy suggested me and I handed over my licence and he said nothing. Sorted. We had a nice big car!

Then the fun started. Jess bravely took the wheel, on the wrong side of the car. Off we went. It was now dark. First turn everything looked confusing and we had to reverse back onto the road. Off we go. Oops, wrong turn at a intersection, back to the start. Take two. Off we go. The roads were a spaghetti of turns and choices and suddenly decisions were needed with cars beside us.

We arrived at a toll where Jess had to climb through the window to reach the ticket. We drove on and a few meters and should have stayed left but as we realised this a car was there and we had to go right. Wrong. We arrived at a toll gate where we had to insert the ticket from previous toll and then pay.  But now we had to loop back. A few more tolls, lots of left's and right's until I recognised a car park.. that's where we hired the car.. half an hour later we were back at the airport. Not sure how much Jess appreciated my laughter but I had visions of us driving around and around Florence all night, spending all our holiday money on tolls and never reaching our villa. But next time we kept left when we needed to and took all the right turns. 

Going in circles 🤣

Our host met us in a car park in Sieci and we followed her out the village and through the foresty uphill, windy road to our farm villa. It's lovely.

We unpacked and chose our rooms and headed back to town for pizza.

Saturday the 14th - Florence

Tim phoned is at 6 to say I needed to send an email for them to give my bag to him. He was in Rome at last!!

He dragged both our bags to Rome train station from the airport, then got on a train to Sieci where we fetched him.

We'd had coffee, phoned Cape Town to get a script for Dada medication he'd forgotten. Gone to pharmacy and done grocery shopping at Carrefour.

We were finally all together and United with our bags 😀

Prosecco time!

We relaxed around the pool and Judy made a lovely salad for lunch.

We had Aperol and all swam except for Dad.

Jess suggested we go into Florence to watch the sunset on the hill, so we parked the car at the Sieci station and caught the train in. 

Tim found us a bus which dropped us off where we needed. It was crowded and festive with lovely views. 

We walked down into Florence. Jess and Tim went off to sight see.

I thought this such a pretty restaurant.

We met up later for dinner in the square.

Found an Irish pub to watch the rugby. Ireland sadly lost (for Jess anyway).

And caught the 11:20 train back to Sieci.

Sunday 15th October - Florence 

We all slept late, had coffee and pastries.

Jess, Tim and I decided to go into Florence so Judy dropped us at the train station and we caught the train in.

We walked to the Academia Gallery and joined the queue. 

It started to rain a little

Tim walked around a bit and later Jess went for a gelato. After two hours we finally got in.

It was smaller than I expected and you see the statue of David almost immediately.

Girls behaving badly

Creepy doll

Jess and Jess in the morning

We walked to the Santa Maria Cathedral again.

Italian people love their dogs, which you see in shops and restaurants like one would at home. Why South Africa is so weird with dogs I don't understand.

And then to the Ponte Vecchio (bridge). This is the bridge the Medici used which had jewellery shops added onto the bridge.

Unusual kitchen tea

I insisted that we walk to The Santa Croce  Basilica.

Such a sweet dog 

We stumbled onto the Medici church.

We caught the 18:20 train home. Jess and Tim watched the rugby.

Beautiful pink sunset while we waited for Judy to fetch us.

Tim made us delicious chicken pasta and Mom and Judy had got fancy pudding.

We watched the rugby and SA beat France!

Monday 16th October - wine farms

After breakfast at home we dropped Dad at the station who was going to ride the red bus and trams around Florence for the day.

The rest of us went looking for a wine farm.

We had lunch in a small village.

Got home about 6 and I fetched Dad about half an hour later from the station.

Tuesday 17th October  - Lake Garda

We all woke early and got dropped at the station at 6. Judy and Jess drove to the airport to drop off the car and the rest of us got the 7 o clock train into Florence .

Dad and Tim went for coffee while Mom and I waited on Florence staying for Judy and Jess too arrive.

They also had time for a coffee before we caught the 10 o clock train to Brenner. It arrived a bit, soon after 12 and there was a taxi big enough to take all of us and our luggage, which dropped us at a fancy hotel halfway to our destination. We had lunch here on the terrace overlooking the lake

Dad, Mom and our luggage took the golf cart back up to the road.

There was a bus stop a few metres away where we caught a bus into Brenner.

Our hotel was close, in the centre of town on the water. We had Aperols in Dad and Mom's room,

Before wondering around the village, which is lovely.

We all had dinner back at our hotel.

Wednesday 18th October  - Lake Garda

Judy and I slept downstairs and Tom and Jess in an upstairs section.

Balcony with view from our room

 

Breakfast is included with the hotel, after which Jess and I hit the shops.

Such a sweet duck 

Tim found and joined us, 

Dad and Mom were at a nearby restaurant.

While Dad started there and later walked around the shops, the rest of us went to see the castle.

Jess

We follow Jess up to the top of the tower where the views were spectacular.

We got such a fright when the one I clock bell chimed with Jess standing right next to it 🤣

We spent the rest of the day looking for a restaurant to celebrate the Anniversary in and shopping. I bought something to wear for the dinner and some shoes.

We had drinks at our hotel and dinner in the village at a pizzeria.

19 October 2023 -  60 years married 🎉

Judy woke early to rush to Spar for some Prosecco.

We had a Champagne breakfast together at the hotel.

Will put better photo when I get otgers

We caught the 10:30 ferry to Limone in the miserable weather.

Limone

We wandered around the village, separating and meeting up at times. Mom, Jess and Tim got coffee.

It was rainy most the day.

We all met for drinks and snacks at the waterfront restaurant where Judy had hoped to have the Anniversary dinner. Mom, Judy and Jess tried the Limoncelo spritzer (Limoncelo comes from Limone).

Because of the weather there were less ferries on the day, so we caught the three o clock one back (only return trip on our tickets).

I sat upstairs with Dad.

The Castle in Malcesine we'd been in.

Dad and Mom's room is top floor of the yellow building 

Back at the hotel we all got ready for dinner.

Judy had organised some singers for us while Jess took photos 

We moved to our chosen restaurant (close to our Hotel) for a lovely dinner.

20 October 2023 -  Malcesine to Verona

After breakfast we did some last shopping in Malcesine and then caught a bus all the way to Verona. Dad, Mom and Judy got off near their Airbnb at the station and the rest of us went into the centre of town to our lovely Airbnb. 

Arena in Verona 

We went to see Juliet's house, the balcony where Romeo's Juliet stands - from the movie "Letters to Juliet".

We had drinks near the Arena. 

Not sure what this building was.

Met up with Judy for dinner.

Walking back past our wine spot.

We went to watch the rugby at the gin bar (was our coffee shop in the morning). New Zealand trashed Argentina. Jess and I went home at half-time. 

Tim and Judy stayed to the end.

Saturday 21 October 2023 -  Verona to Venice 

Our Airbnb didn't cater for baggage storage so we walked 15 mins to where Judy had booked and left Jess's luggage there.

Airbnb Jess booked

We stopped at a nasty diner near the station where some had breakfast and said goodbye to Jess and Tim. Jess was spending the day in Verona and flying home at 21h00 and Tim was spending the day in Rome and flying home late too.

We got onto a train to Venice. About an hour long and 10 euros each.

Venice is beautiful. Just like I imagined. 

We bought a 48 hour water taxi card and caught one two minutes walk from our apartment. We are on the top floor... No lift. 

I made some Caprese and we headed out.

Sweet dog on the water taxi

We changed boats and went to Murano.

Dad found somewhere to sit and have a drink while we walked a bit more.

I really loved these glass jellyfish, but I have too much stuff so refrained from buying them.

The queues for the water taxi home were bad and the boats arrived full, so Mom and I ended up on an earlier boat Judy and Dad couldn't get on. 

It was a beautiful sunset from the boat.

There was lightening 

Dad and Judy started on the Champagne and kept us a glass for when we met where we had to change taxi's. Some French people were impressed and asked if they could take a photo of us.

Waiting for our water taxi.

Venice is just lovely.

We had dinner at a restaurant next to our Hotel and then watched the rugby on my phone. 

South Africa best England in the last few moments of the game.

Sunday 22 October 2023 -  Venice 

Dad decided to spend the morning riding the water taxi's, so Mom, Judy and I headed out. 

With or without the graffiti?

This art was fun.

It's hard to select just a few photos, it's so pretty here.

This shop had such beautiful masks.

Taken on Rialto bridge

Rialto bridge 

Judy and Mom tries to have breakfast on a table at the waters edge but were told they were reserved for 4 people, so they left.

The birds tuck in immediately 

Love in Venice 

We caught the water taxi to St Mark's Square.

Bridge of sighs (convicts crossed over it to prison and had their last sight of the waters).

There was a marathon happening in the square.

The buildings were quite dramatic in the square.

I loved this restaurant with an orchestra playing.

Mom and I met up with Dad and had a rest at the Airbnb while Judy had a salad and spritz at one of the restaurants on the water.

Then we all headed out for a ride on the water, ending at St Marks square again (from where we walked home both times).

Bridge of sighs lit up.

Square lit up at night.

Last selfie in Venice 💜

Dad and Mom were tired on the walk back.  We had our last meal in Italy near our Airbnb and packed our bags for an early start.

Monday 2e October 2023 -  Venice to Austria 

Today is Jess, Ingrid and Declan's birthdays. 

We had an early start, I took the bags down the flights of stairs, and we caught the water taxi to the station.

There was a medical emergency on our train so it didn't arrive, but fortunately Trenitalia (the train company) had a replacement train ready in time. I sat next ladies from Swindon who had run 10km in the Venice marathon. 

We had just a few minutes to get from platform 4 where we arrived to platform 1, so we didn't dawdle and made the only train to Brenner today. The views got lovely - green, mountains and castles. 

Train window was dirty and you never get good pics anyway.